Cape Winelands

Capetonians are in the fortunate position of having some of the world’s best wine farms on their doorstep. A drive of less than 45 minutes from the city will land you slap-bang in the middle of some of the Cape’s most celebrated vineyards.

A corner of France

Franschhoek is one of the more popular stops on the Cape Winelands route. This little town, ‘French Corner’, is like a little bit of Provence in South Africa. The names of the streets and farms roll off the tongue with a tasteful elegance. La Petite Ferme, Chamonix and Mont Rochelle are all testament to the early Huguenot influence in the area.

French Huguenots arrived in South Africa en masse from around 1688 and settled in the present day Western Cape. Most were escaping religious persecution by Catholics in France and sought to live their lives according to their own beliefs.

A large monument and museum at the end of the main street in Franschhoek commemorates the Huguenots’ arrival in South Africa.

The Huguenots brought with them their knowledge of viticulture and quickly established wine farms in the area.

Total gastronomy

Wine is not the only reason to visit Franschhoek. The town is also blessed with some of the finest restaurants in South Africa. Probably the only other place in the country you’ll find more chefs per capita in the country is neighbouring Paarl!

Gorgeous local produce and cheeses are complemented by the fabulous wines of the region, all served to you in an idyllic pastoral setting, making for a truly exquisite dining experience.

There is not much to do in Franschhoek proper other than eat and drink. There is a small fromagerie (cheese shop) as well as a chocolatier (chocolate shop) where you can try your hand at making your own confectionery. A visit to the monument and museum is worthwhile. Mostly, it’s a wonderful experience just to take an amble up the main street and have a look in the craft shops and little art galleries.

Put your feet up

I spent the night at the very opulent Franschhoek Country House and Villas, which is on the right just as you enter Franschhoek. Water features and huge terracotta pots filled with lemons are dotted throughout the fragrant lavender gardens which are traversed by cobbled paths to the suites.

Underfloor heating and a gas fire make cozy features in the spacious rooms, which have unobtrusive views across the central courtyard. In the winter, this boutique hotel is like a home away from home - you can ensconce yourself on the huge comfy couches with a book, a bottle of wine and a roaring fire. In the summer, there are swimming pools and all sorts of al fresco dining options nearby.

Cuisine chez Monneaux

The Monneaux Restaurant at the Franschhoek Country House is in a building that used to be a perfumarie.

These days it’s an award-winning restaurant, and for good reason. Monneaux serves cuisine that puts a contemporary twist on French classics. Wading through the gastronomic menu seemed appealing - you basically get to sample everything, but at roughly six courses I wasn’t entirely sure I’d manage.

Instead, I started with a deliciously creamy savoury-sweet goats-cheese cheesecake, the venison as the main course and a bottle of Merlot.

After that outstanding dinner, it was a chore to tear myself away from the crackling fire in the restaurant. I wended my way back to the suite through the cold night for a good night’s sleep in the oversized bed.

An alternative route

Even though I have lived in Cape Town for most of my life, Paarl is one of those places I’ve just never bothered to explore. I’ve always thought of it as a bastion for eccentric artists, wine farmers and funny-looking monuments.

Paarl is just a short drive from Franschhoek and I was pleasantly surprised by what I found there - a large bustling town brimming with antique stores and lively restaurants.

Certainly a far cry from the rather dim visions I’d always had as I whizzed past on the freeway.

Local knowledge

I was fortunate enough to be met by a Paarl local, enthusiast and bon vivant who was going to show me around for the day. Sarina met me at a funky florist-cum-coffee shop just off the Main Road, called Kikka.

It’s always rather intimidating, when one is used to anonymity, to be thrust into a situation where everybody clearly knows everybody. Although, I can testify that the locals are exceptionally friendly and accommodating.

Kikka’s neighbour is a new and up-and-coming uber-cool restaurant called Noop. Chef and owner Abe Conradie chatted to me a little about the place. “Noop serves good honest food,” he says. The á la carte menu is based on the old French stock pot, and at lunch times the place buzzes as they serve up South African favourites like bredie, brianis and pies.

It’s definitely worth popping into Kikka if you’re passing by, there’re plenty of interesting little trinkets to tempt you.

Sarina and I were on a mission to get as big a taste of what Paarl has to offer as possible.

If you like hunting for antiques and little knick-knacks, the Main Road is a good place to start. The street is loaded with shops selling everything from old garden furniture to local art and glassware.

Venturing out of town and around the Paarl Valley, you’ll find masses of wine farms. The Paarl wine route is especially appealing if you are looking for something extra. Most of the estates we visited all have other industries running too.

Art and function

Seidelberg Wine Estate is notable example. There is an art studio called Bronze Age. Spectacular metal sculptures and functional pieces are showcased in the studio which is set in the breathtaking vineyards.

Further up the hill on the same estate is a sumptuous restaurant and cellar with a working glass-blowing studio. Every two weeks, Red Hot Glass make glass from sand. You should call ahead to confirm the viewing (+27 21 863 0330). They also sell the glassware at the shop - and the products range from sculpture and perfume bottles to jewelry and vases.

Fairview cheese

Next door to Seidelberg is Fairview. This estate has a lovely cellar and restaurant, as well as a large number of goats. Fairview specialises in cheeses, and their fromagerie sells every conceivable variety.

Rhebokskloof Estate

After a very full morning exploring the valley and meeting and greeting the locals, Sarina and I arrived at Rhebokskloof Estate for lunch. The restaurant is beautifully set, with an outside seating area under the dappled shade of ancient trees overlooking two dams.

We were treated to a delicious grilled fish lunch and a bottle of Rhebokskloof Blanc de Blanc. The meal was wonderfully complemented by a local cheese platter. Feeling thoroughly satisfied and ready to lie down under a tree for a nap, I had one more activity planned for the day.

The world from horseback

Wine Valley Horse Trails has their stables on the Rhebokskloof estate. Conventional wisdom dictates that after a large lunch and wine, getting onto a horse is probably not such a great idea. However, I can highly recommend it.

Seeing the valley from horseback is truly breathtaking. There are guided trails that cater for all levels of rider and they vary in length and route. You can even do wine tasting on a horseback trail, and you’ll visit several farms in the area.

My little jaunt around Rhebokskloof on horseback was the perfect end to a perfect day. Well, that’s what I thought until I dismounted only to discover muscles aching that I’d never known existed.

A place to hang your hat

As the sun was setting I headed just outside Paarl to the exquisite 27-hole Boschenmeer Golf Estate where I spent the night in one of their 5-star self-catering lodges. All of the lodges are set right along the green and afford stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

No trip to Cape Town would be complete without a visit to the Winelands. With so much to eat, drink, see and do, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Useful Contacts:

Wine Valley Horse Trails
Rhebokskloof Wine Estate
Tel: +27 21 869 8687

Red Hot Glass
Seidelberg Wine Estate
Tel: +27 21 863 0330

Bronze Age Studio
Seidelberg Wine Estate
Tel: +27 21 863 5224